The Off

Leaving home on Sunday 17th of November 2019 to catch the ferry from Harwich to Holland. A wet and foggy start to my journey.

Rolling On

Rolling on to the Roll on Roll off ferry, behind two Dutch bikers. The man just ahead worked in Private Security in Iraq in 07/08. This was my work until a month before; it is a small world. We sailed on the Stena Britannica, a Stena Line ferry.

Early morning on the Stenna Britannica

A GFX Shot from the back of the boat as we head towards Holland, in the early hours of Monday 18th November 2019

Bavarian Dinner

A great recomendation from the hotel in Nuremburg, took me to a German Beer Cellar, with good food and great beer. Bar Fuber, 18 Nov 2019.

Overlooking Linz

A prettier city than I was expecting, chosen only for it's convenience in location, being mid way between Nuremberg and Budapest.

Tube Station in Budapest

Between Buda and Pest, 20 Nov 2019

Deserted Services

There were a lot of these deserted service stations and motels along the motorway in Serbia. This looked like it was still open, but it was deserted and I didn't try the door. There were no cars in the car park, and all the buildings around it were closed down. I guess modern services stations have killed business for these older places.

Hotel Leipzig, Plovdiv

As red on the inside as the out, Hotel Leipzig was a special place in Plovdiv, Bulgaria, 24 Nov 2019

Bulgarian Roads

I took a detour at the request of google, which I think mistook the line of parked lorries waiting for the border crossing as a traffic jam. In any event it was good to ride in some countryside, rather than blast through it, although the Bulgarian roads are not well kept.

Bracken in Turkey

I cut off the motorway in search of fuel, and found myself driving on very minor country roads, surrounded by bracken. I could very easily have been in the Charnwood Forest, not Northern Turkey between Istanbul and Ankara.

Lake Tuz

Stop by Lake Tuz, second largest lake in Turkey, 28 Nov 2019. Lake Tuz is one of the largest salt lakes in the world, with a maximum length and width of 50 miles by 30 miles, and a maximum depth of 5 feet, but for most of the year the lake is only 1 foot deep.

Hasandagi Volcano

This volcano is a huge feature, and in the top ten features in Western Asia. It rises 3,000 feet above the neighbouring countryside.

Police Stop

Traffic stop with the friendliest policemen. A 176 Lira fine for payment on exit, around $50. Not the end of the world! I was given an apple and cheery smile and waved on my way. Of course we are now connected on Insta. It is a small and connected world we are now in.

Looking forward to the Taurus Mountains

The mountain views were beautiful, at least while the sun shone. Later, I could see black clouds billowing up from the other side of the mountains. When I cut through the last motorway tunnel and out the other side it was into torrential rain and thick fog.

Looking towards the Mountains from Bayegil, in Southern Turkey.

Shortly after earning a speeding ticket I stopped briefly to enjoy the views ahead of the Taurus Mountains, which separate Anatolia from the Mediterranean Region.

Gazantiep, Anatolia, Turkey

I was relieved to get to Gazantiep. It had looked an unambitous leg of the journey, but the conditions made it challenging and I was glad to arrive in one piece after driving once again through pouring rain. It was still raining the next morning when I left and I was very nervous as I pulled away onto the motorway. Nerves are probably a good thing; they got me here. That was a special morning. Fog, contra flow, drivers who trust in God rather than their ability to drive in a way appropriate for the conditions.

Leaving Mardin

Preparing for departure from the Zinciriye Hotel in the old town of Mardin, Southern Turkey, during a ride from the UK to Iraq on 30 Nov 2019. Mardin is an ancient city built on the hills overlooking the Tigris river, and the plains of Mesopotamia. And a cat. Spot the cat!

Mardin Views

Looking out from Mardin over the Mesopotanian plans, stretching away to Syria and Iraq.

First Iraq Sign Post

A good view from the office; not to far out of Mardin I found the first sign post showing Iraq, a good boost for morale. Sitting here I'm facing south towards Syria. The D400 runs adjacent to the border. Turning left (east) heads towards Iraq, right (west) back towards Anatolia.

Looking into Syria

Stopped by the roadside near Cizre in Turkey, looking over the Tigris river and into Syria. The route this morning ran directly alongside the border for mile after mile, with Turkish Army bases here and there, and observation posts overlooking the border itself at regular intervals. The border consisted of 2 lines of concrete walls, and additional wire fencing. The border didn't appear to be manned, but I am sure there would have been a quick response if I had stopped to show an interest. This was far enough away to be out of sight of the watch towers, but near enough to see the border itself. 01 Dec 2019

Filtering Through Traffic

Miles of lorries line up in Turkey on the approach road to the Ibrahim Khalil Border Crossing, on 01 Dec 2019. Around a thousand cars and 1500 trucks a day cross into Kurdistan.

Selfie Crowd Control

The crowd was getting a little out hand at the border crossing point out of Turkey and in to Iraq. Nothing unfriendly, just growing noise, more and more jostling. The way to get kids to line up these days, and behave? Shout 'Selfie' and wait for them to dash into shot. 01 Dec 2019, on the Turkish side of the Iraqi Border Crossing Point.

Crossing the Khabur

The Khabur River forms the border between Turkey and Iraqi Kurdistan near the Ibrahim Khalil Border Crossing Point in Iraq.

Iraqi entry visa!

Visa on arrival just as good on land as on arrival by air, but much slower to complete the following processes to bring the bike in. A friendly lot though, and gave me tea - the first of many.

Christian Church West of Dohuk

I have driven past this Christian village several times on the way in to the IDP camp, but have not been able to stop. I took the chance to go have a look. Behind me a woman was pulling bedding out from a very old stone hut to air in the sunshine. The previous night had been raining heavily, and I doubt the building was water tight. I don't know if these were long term residents, or refugees from the fighting who had moved into an unoccupied building. I suspect the latter.

Looking ove the Kabarto 2 Camp

Kabarto 1 and 2 Camp, west of Dohuk, 3rd December 2019. The camps are home to some 27,000 IDPs in 3,000 tents, Arabs, Kurds and Yazidi. This was the final destination of my trip from the UK to visit my friends Najla and Khitam. Kabarto 1 and 2 are immediately adjacent to each other.

Iraqi Policeman

I stopped and said hello to this Iraqi motorcycle police man. Of course it could not possible stop at hello. I had to have tea, and so was directed to follow him to the nearest check point. He was a friendly guy; most of the security forces here are. Of course we are now connected on Insta...

Blackbird Selfie at the Khani Hotel

Couldn't resist this. And nor, so it seems, can half the youngsters in Dohuk, who are often here snapping.

Stop on the Great Zab River

The Great Zab originates in southern Turkey, running some 400km in a winding path through the Kurdish Region before merging with the Tigris River south of Mosul

Tea Seller

Tea stop on the bridge over the Great Zab River, between Dohuk and Erbil in Iraqi Kurdistan, late afternoon on the 3rd of December. Tea is made in a kettle, heated over a wooden fire, giving a distinctive taste and smell to the experience. The road to this point had been very good, but soon afterwards deteriotated to become deeply rutted. The tea seller refused to accept any money for his tea, quite typical of the hospitality here. I have seen my driver in the past argue with waiters to take money from him.

Rutted Roads into Erbil

The road on the final miles into Erbil is simply atrocious. The shadows cast here give a feel for the size of the ridges that run down the road.

With Najkla and Khitam at the Shop

Finally made it to see Najla and Khitam, 3,050 miles from my house to their shop. It was good to see them.